As Bifanas do Afonso

Bay leaf, garlic, white wine, and possibly Sprite are key flavorings. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Grab your sandwich and eat it on the sidewalk. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

This sandwich is worth the hype. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

A crusty Portuguese roll soaks up all the juices. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

A squirt of mustard is the perfect accompaniment. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

These bifanas are made in the northern style. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Come hungry; this is one filling sandwich. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Look for the line around the block. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Cheap vinho à pressão, or "tap wine," is the ideal pairing. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

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Portugal: A Culinary Adventure from Porto to Lisbon

Explore Portugal through food, from the cities to the seaside.

The people of Portugal love a sandwich, and one of the country’s most beloved is the bifana. Taking the form of slices of pork served in a roll, in Lisbon that protein is typically grilled, but somewhat confusingly, the city’s most popular bifana is done in the northern style.

You don’t need Google Maps to know if you’ve arrived at As Bifanas do Afonso; look for the perpetual line or simply follow the aroma of porky broth that extends down the block. Your destination is essentially a stall, which specializes in one dish: thin slices of pork, braised in a mix of white wine, garlic, bay leaf, and lard (and, it’s said, Sprite), stuffed in a chewy Portuguese-style roll.

Boost your bifana via a squirt of sweet, cheap mustard or a drizzle of house-made chili oil, and pair it with a glass of vinho à pressão, “tap wine,” made sweet with the addition of sugar and bubbly via carbonation. It’s simple, cheap, casual and utterly delicious.