About
Open only in the wee hours of the night and high on Roman Catholic vibes, this dive feels like stumbling into Semana Santa (Holy Week), 52 weeks a year. Painted effigies and iconography depicting the Virgin Mary and assorted saints are crammed into every nook and cranny. Even the music undeniably evokes the incense-heavy nave of a cathedral at mass.
While the concept might seem sacrilegious, Miguel Fragoso, a native of Seville, considers himself a devout man. None of the antiques on display here were blessed or ever used in worship services. Fragoso opened Bar Garlochí on June 15, 1978 and named the place for a poem by Rafael de León, which reads, “Come and wait for me, come to me. And I will give it to you, my garlochí.” The word means “heart” in the local Roma slang.
Even as the area around it has gentrified, this dive has held onto its grit. The menu still consists of beer, shots, and a few house cocktails, most notably, the Sangre de Cristo, or “Blood of Christ,” which contains sparkling wine and grenadine. It's a decidedly irreverent spin on Communion still administered in good faith.
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The bar is cash only.
Published
February 14, 2024