La Casa de las Torrijas

This isn't your mom's French toast. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Sweet, fortified muscat wine makes for a lovely accompaniment. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Red wine stains the French toast a dark purple. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Grab a seat for one of Madrid's sweetest treats. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

When soaked in milk, the dish has an almost ethereal lightness. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Every day is French Toast Day. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

Little has changed about the exterior over the years. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

The restaurant's official name is El Anciano Rey de los Viños, “The Ancient King of Wines.” Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

The joint has been in business since 1842, although its torrijas only dates back to 1907. Austin Bush for Gastro Obscura

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The outside of the tavern Xavixavir (Atlas Obscura User)

Inside Xavixavir (Atlas Obscura User)

Torrija and coffee Xavixavir (Atlas Obscura User)

Inside Xavixavir (Atlas Obscura User)

Its official name is El Anciano Rey de los Viños, “The Ancient King of Wines,” but everyone knows this Madrid restaurant as La Casa de las Torrijas, “The House of French Toast.”

Torrijas, stale bread soaked in milk or other liquid, dipped in eggs, fried in olive oil and sprinkled with sugar, is a dessert typically associated with Semana Santa, a spring holiday in Madrid. But this restaurant is one of only a handful of places in town that has traditionally served the dish year-round, something it’s been doing since 1907.

At La Casa de las Torrijas, the eponymous dish takes two forms. Torrijas de leche, the version most closely associated with Semana Santa in Madrid, are soaked in milk, emerging from the kitchen with a paper-thin crispy exterior and an interior that’s almost omelet-like in its softness and richness.

An order is served sprinkled with sugar supplemented with a pinch of cinnamon, and is drizzled with a honey-like syrup given a pleasant fragrance via citrus zest. Torrijas de viño are soaked in red wine and are drizzled in a fragrant, slightly tart, purple-hued wine syrup. Either of them is likely to make you reassess your mom’s French toast.