Maksu Soup Chormalee

The first thing you’ll notice at Maksu Soup Chormalee is a vat of broth that could practically double as a plunge pool. In it, beef bones and offal simmer along with typically Southeast Asian aromatics such as galangal and lemongrass, as well as dried spices, filling the air with a savory, beefy, fragrant aroma. 

Thailand’s southernmost provinces are largely inhabited by Muslims, whose cuisine has links with Malaysia, Indonesia, South Asia and the Middle East. One of the more ubiquitous Muslim dishes in this region is sup nuea, beef soup. And one of the most legendary places to eat the dish in the south is at this restaurant in Pattani District.

To order, choose your cut—gelatinous foot is most popular in these parts, as is tripe, but there’s also meatier cuts of braised beef, or oxtail—and it will be topped with that broth, the bowl seasoned with fresh chilies, lime juice, a splash of fish sauce, a sprinkle of white pepper and a garnish of crispy fried shallots and chopped green onions. 

Your soup is then served with a plate of rice and a khai jiao, a Thai-style omelet made by shallow-frying eggs over high heat so that they balloon, then deflate, leaving slightly crispy edges. It might sound like an incongruous combination, but it somehow just works.