Located in a residential area east of Oaxaca's historic center, Mercado de la Merced is your perfect market for shopping, gawking and snacking. It’s both less daunting than the sprawling Central de Abastos and less touristy than the Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Oaxaqueños especially love this market in the morning, often stopping at various fondas (small restaurants) and stalls to seek out particular specialties. 

Launch into the ultimate breakfast-thon here by the entrance at the always-packed Güerita, source of perfect memelas for almost five decades. Earthy and puffy, these thick hand-patted comal-griddled tortillas come with a dozen different toppings, but locals swear by one: chicharrón prensado, the crunchy savory pork skin and meat combo spooned over black bean refritos and topped with stringy quesillo and a mild tomato salsa. 

Next, weave your way through the produce lanes, admiring the ridged to criollo tomatoes, multi-colored heirloom corn, and a riot of tropical fruit like mameys and guavas. Your goal is to locate the tamale stall Geno (just ask), grab a tamal Oaxaqueño, and take your oversized banana-leaf-bundled booty to a table in the main dining hall flanked by various fondas. Accompany your gorgeous tamal—made with soft pillowy masa cradling a black mole filling—with a cup of frothy hot chocolate or an atole from Comedor Mary, which is famed for its warming drinks. 

And for the main course? Beloved Fonda Rosita, founded in the 1880s, obliges with some of Oaxaca’s best chilaquiles. Think: crispy tostadas drowned in tart salsa verde, topped with quesillo, epazote and onion, then crowned with a fried egg and chorizo, to be served in an oversized clay cazuela. 

The lone elder singer or out-of-tune mariachis are part of the charm. Tip them well.