Missouri’s One-Of-A-Kind Restaurants Offer Delicious Cuisine and a Dose of History
Ribs inside a railcar, filets in a Civil War hospital and wings in an airport hangar – the Show-Me State is full of unique culinary experiences.
In the small town of Palmyra, Missouri, northwest of Hannibal (the hometown of Mark Twain), a historical property has taken on new life as Cole’s Hearth Room. Now an elevated American restaurant, the Hearth Room was a farmstead whose original barns and silo were built in 1846. During the Civil War, gurneys filled the halls of the main building so the home could function as a hospital. When the farm’s owners lost the home during the Great Depression, the adjacent Greenwood Cemetery developed it into a caretaker’s house. In 2006, Chef Coltin Cole and his wife, Deidra, purchased and began renovating the property
Like the farm, Chef Cole has lived through many chapters. At one time, he was a professional mixed martial arts fighter. He spent years traveling for the sport, enjoying the many places it took him – like Thailand, where he trained at the famed Tiger Muay Thai. As he got older, he began working in restaurants, mostly as a mixologist, and cultivated a passion for crafting cocktails.
Chef Cole’s rustic style reflects the property’s historical roots. (The restaurant’s name comes from the pine closets that once covered the main building’s hand-cut stone hearths.) He makes all his sauces from scratch and hand-cuts only fresh meats. He also roasts his own pork belly, which takes three hours, and makes his ravioli dough and filling from scratch.
“Our filet is the staple of the menu,” said Cole. “It’s a great cut that’s so flavorful with our house-made herb butter. It’s something that brings guests back.” The Urban Cowboy, another dish, wows with its presentation – the 16-ounce ribeye is finished with a blackberry bordelaise sauce, topped with fried portobellos and leek hay. Cole’s signature cocktail, the Smoked Maple Man-Fashioned, is a twist on a Manhattan and an Old-Fashioned, smoked with hints of maple.
Throughout Missouri, restaurants like Cole’s are not just unique culinary experiences, but they act as history’s vaults, protecting the rich stories of these communities.
In Sedalia, the thick, sweet smell of smoked meat fills the air at Kehde’s Barbeque. About 75 miles southeast of Kansas City, Kehde’s, now a fourth-generation family business, honors the two things that gave the town its start: meat and trains.
Sedalia became a thriving depot of the major Texas cattle drives once the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad was established. The town was located on two major rail lines, positioning it as a booming cow town. The community’s economy and success were linked to the railroad for about a century.
Honoring that tradition, a large portion of Kehde’s is located inside a restored 1920s railcar. Its interior has leather seats, vintage luggage stored overhead and original antique light fixtures.
The walls in the main dining room are filled with framed, black-and-white photographs and newspaper clippings that document the town’s storied past.
Kehde’s first edition came in 1955 when Ed Kehde opened the Dog N’ Suds drive-in. In 1969, Ed and his son, John, ventured into the barbecue business. Fast forward to present-day, one of the Kehde boys packs the smoker daily with pork, brisket, ribs, ham and turkey. The Posh Potatoes, a crowd-favorite, uses the meat and tops the baked potatoes with butter, barbecue sauce, green onions, cheddar cheese and sour cream.
Customers also love the crispy, juicy fried catfish and prime rib on weekends. Contrary to the sign out front, which only recognizes three generations, a fourth generation now helps keep the tradition alive.
Missouri’s ties to the railroad also pop up in other places. At Fritz’s Railroad Restaurant in Kansas City, the food is delicious and cooked to order, and its delivery is delightful. After you order an old-fashioned burger or a double dog (with a malt!) from your table’s telephone, an overhead train system will deliver the food right to you.
While the fun, four-wheeled delivery system is a lure for diners today, the original intent was one of practicality. In the 1960s, owner Fritz Kropf had expanded from one location to two. Facing a labor shortage, he tinkered with an automated food delivery concept in his home’s basement until he perfected it.
Kropf eventually patented the system, nicknamed the “Skat Kat,” and installed it in his second restaurant location in the 1970s. Guests started calling it the “train,” and the concept stuck. From there, Kropf started collecting train memorabilia and all things railroad. Today, railroad crossing signs, model trains and other artifacts pack the main dining room.
Several decades before the Skat Kat was transporting cheeseburgers to Kansas City tables, another classic restaurant had emerged in St. Louis. The Cheshire hotel opened on the west side of the city in the 1920s. The inn exuded of traditional English charm – signature gabled roofs, wooden beams crisscrossing through white stucco and intricate, latticed windows. In 2011, the inn underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation to preserve its original character.
Inside the hotel, Fox & Hounds Tavern pays tribute to the gathering rooms made popular by English hunting culture. In a dimly lit room, red gingham wingbacks sit near the hearth. Exposed wooden beams, stone and metal blend together to create a cozy, cigar-room vibe. Kick back with a scotch or a “yard of ale,” a pub tradition that serves two pints in a tall, slender glass. Traditional English fare, from bangers and mash to fish and chips, makes up the menu.
Southeast of the city of Joplin, snag a seat next to a rock ledge and sample your favorite comfort foods at the Undercliff Grill & Bar. As its name suggests, one side of this casual spot is built directly into the side of a cliff, making the entire back wall of the restaurant solid stone.
But in-cliff dining wasn’t always the draw. In 1928, the rock (which rests at the intersection of Old Highway 71 and Elder Road) was the site of The Under Cliff general store, a shop that served the small town of Tipton Ford. The store changed hands in 1961, evolving into Frank and Bonnie’s, a popular fried-chicken joint that burnt down in 1980. The building stayed vacant until the Undercliff Grill & Bar opened in 1995.
The Undercliff’s menu is full of classic American choices, from cheeseburgers and fried chicken to meatloaf, wings and sandwiches. Start with the fried pickles and deviled eggs while you sample one of the local brews on tap, including those from Neosho-based Indian Springs Brewing Company. Hearty Reubens, The Cliff (grilled pastrami and ham) and a seriously stacked grilled cheese come in baskets with classic, red-and-white checkered liners. And because the area’s rural and located along roads popular among motorcyclists, you’re bound to see a hog or two parked out front.
While riders may motor to the Undercliff, flight enthusiasts flock to the Hangar Kafe in Miller. Huge model planes hang from the rafters of this airplane hangar-turned-restaurant on the Kingsley family airfield. Throughout the dining room, photos and clippings honor four generations of Kingsley family farmers-turned-crop dusters.
The “Pilot’s Breakfast” comes with two eggs, sausage, bacon, and a pancake. Corned beef hash and build-your-own omelets show up on the morning menu as well. “Preflight” appetizers include fried pickles, okra and cheese curds, while wing baskets – BBQ, Buffalo, or Parmesan – come with fries or tots and Texas toast.
Missouri’s culinary scene offers delicious food and a side of history. Whether you’re stopping in Miller to dine in the Hangar Kafe, detouring for a craft cocktail at Cole’s Hearth Room in Mark Twain country or digging into Missouri’s ties to the railroad at Fritz’s Railroad Restaurant and Kehde’s Barbeque, the Show-Me State provides unforgettable dining adventures.
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