Weekend Guides for the Curious Traveler
Savannah

Start your day with a stroll along East River Street, at the end of which you’ll find Savannah's most memorable statue, commemorating the original host of the Hostess City, Florence Martus (1868-1943). From her spot on the Savannah River, you can easily picture Martus’s view of incoming ships as she welcomed them to the city, with her dog standing at her side. Martus spent the bulk of her life on nearby Elba Island, and it's said that between 1887 to 1931, no ship arrived or departed here without her waving a handkerchief by day or a lantern by night. 

Walk (carefully!) back up the historic steps and over to Abercorn Street, following the glittering marquee lights of the Lucas Theatre for the Arts. Travel back to the 1920s with a self-guided tour of the Italian Renaissance exterior and ornate Italianate interior. Arthur Melville Lucas Jr.'s grand movie palace is remarkable for a number of reasons, not least of which is its claim to being the first public building in Savannah to feature air conditioning. While you're there, check the schedule in case you want to catch a midday matinee, hosted by the Savannah College of Art and Design. You can also visit Vedette, the cafe inside the Lucas serving sweet and savory crepes, coffee, and teas.

Just a few blocks away from the Lucas, this historic seaman's tavern might look like a shack from the outside, but don’t be fooled. There are 15 separate dining rooms inside filled with maps, ship helms, skulls, and other pirate-themed paraphernalia. You can browse the gift shop while you wait on a table, or ask one of the staff to show you the Captain’s Room and Treasure Room, where you can see pages from an early edition of Treasure Island by Robert Louis Stevenson. The current owners like to claim that Captain Flint, a fictional pirate mentioned in the book, died in the upstairs bedroom. Real pirates will definitely want to order one of the speciality rum drinks that come in a skull-shaped ceramic mug, which you can take with you. 

Operated by a speech pathologist and emergency physician, the Paris Market reflects its owners' clear love of travel. Upstairs you’ll find handmade clothing and accessories, jewelry, soaps, and lotions. If you need souvenirs, the greeting cards on offer here are some of the most original and humorous around. Downstairs is a treasure trove of curiosities, both practical and whimsical, from all over the world. 

The most interesting thing about the Grey, Johno Morisano and Chef Mashama Bailey's high-end Southern eatery, is its location, but that's by no means to suggest the menu isn't a knock-out, too. This award-winning restaurant occupies the city's original 1938 Greyhound Bus Terminal, now painstakingly restored. Solo travelers can usually grab a seat at the bar and enjoy a variety of sandwiches and small plates in the art deco dining room. Couples might prefer reserving a table in the downstairs area for a more intimate atmosphere. The oysters are always a good start, but the real treats live under the "Water" section of the dinner menu, which includes dayboat catches and salted fish toast.

One of the newer entrants to Savannah's already rich slate of museums, the American Prohibition Museum is well worth a visit to gain a fuller understanding of the impact the Volstead Act had on the United States. But it's the speakeasy tucked away in an upstairs gallery of the museum, the Congress Street Up, that's the real draw. You’ll find no PBRs here; all drinks trace their origins to the 1920s. The bar is open after 6:30 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. If you skip the museum, speakeasy guests can still walk through one of the smaller exhibitions and view black-and-white photography around the bar. 

Keep in mind, Congress Street Up suggests guests “dress to impress,” and will turn away anyone in jeans, flip-flops or t-shirts.

The Ralph Mark Gilbert is located on Savannah’s Westside, in the heart of Georgia’s oldest African-American community. Tour guides here typically have deep ties to this community, or are descendants of important local figures, and can speak from personal experience about life in Savannah during the civil rights movement. The museum is known for its interactive exhibitions, so don’t be shy. Press the button at the replica of the once whites-only Azalea Room in Levy’s Department Store to hear a customer-employee conversation in the middle of the famous 1960 sit-in.

No trip to Savannah is complete without paying homage to the founder of the Girl Scouts, but instead of the more well-known Juliette Gordon Lowe Birthplace, visit her later home, now the First Girl Scout Headquarters. The headquarters offers daily tours and programs, including geocaching and historical preservation classes that are just as fun for adults as they are for children. Donate to the Girl Scouts by purchasing a commemorative engraved brick to be placed in the courtyard. Reservations for tours and programs are highly recommended. 

It's difficult not to get lost in the shelves of Savannah’s oldest bookstore, locally owned and operated since 1975. Take your time browsing the wide collection of fiction, nonfiction, and especially the sections dedicated to local and regional history. If you’re looking for anything in particular, the staff is friendly and knowledgeable, especially when it comes to Savannah history and the Civil War. Say hello to Bartleby and Mr. Eliot, two very spoiled rescue cats, and visit the newly added space shared with the Tea Room, which sells loose leaf teas, teaware, gifts, and jewelry.

Get a double dose of patriotism with lunch at Betty Bombers and drinks at the cash-only American Legion Post 135. Originally built in 1913 for the Chatham Artillery, the American Legion took over this structure in 1946. Today it still looks a bit like a fortress from the outside, but inside it's a relaxed bar open to anyone. While at the Legion, don’t miss the array of military badges under glass by the bar, or the black-and-white photos of military airplanes hanging on the walls. Betty Bombers, located in the back of the main building, has excellent burgers, fries, and milkshakes, which you can enjoy inside the restaurant or at the Legion.

Tucked away in the Mansion on Forsyth Park is a parade of historical ladies’ hats, dating from the 1860s to the 1960s. The exhibition, commissioned by the hotel developer and avid art collector Richard C. Kessler, includes casual daytime coverings as well as specialized wedding bonnets. Have a friendly concierge lead you to the display, which is past the hotel lobby in a hallway outside the lounge, and “try on” the different hats by standing in front of the display case and placing your reflection under each lid.

Follow the glowing PBR sign to the corner of Drayton and Harris streets and cap off the day at the best pub in town. Pinkie’s friendly service, cheap drinks, and wide variety of jukebox offerings pulls in an eclectic crowd. Snap a photo with the plaque commemorating President Jimmy Carter’s 1978 visit to the bar, as well as the black-and-white photographs and '70s beer advertisements decorating the walls. If you’re feeling brave, order one of the potent slushies—it may be the only drink you need.